In this morning’s New York Times wine column on Gigondas, the elephant in the room was the 2008 Gigondas from Domaine du Cayron, a wine that wasn’t even in the tasting but seems to have made an indelible impression on chief wine critic Eric Asimov.

Despite finding the Gigondas he sampled as overall “sound, fruity, generous wines,” Eric Asimov seemed haunted by the “ravishing” “perfectly refreshing” Cayron with “the great wash of plummy, berry fruit anchored by an earthy, almost gravelly foundation.”  Even after devoting a whole column to discussing the wines in the tasting, he rhapsodized that “I can’t forget the earthy, licorice-tinged ’08 Domaine du Cayron that I drank at home. Even if it wasn’t in the tasting, it’s the benchmark I use for how enjoyable Gigondas can be.”

Intrigued at what kind of wine could inspire such devotion, we tracked down just 24 bottles of the Domaine du Cayron Gigondas 2008 ($29.50) and are happy to offer them first come, first served to those calling us at (718) 797-9463.